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Werkstatte

1955 356 Speedster Hot Rod

World-renowned Willhoit Restoration took two years restoring and modifying this 1955 Speedster, upgrading the suspension, installing a 2.2 liter WR engine.  The result is a subtle and classy outlaw that would turn heads and stretch necks wherever it goes. The jewel-like Aquamarine paint and chocolate leather interior are *Chef's Kiss*

Learn more here:

https://willhoit356.smugmug.com/FORSALE/1955-Speedster-Hot-Rod/i-9QnRNMH 

Posted in Cars For Sale

Original Paint Laguna Blue 914

We haven't seen one of these in a hot minute.  How about a 1975 914 1.8-Liter still wearing its original Laguna Blue paint. According to the owner, "We used a paint meter—every panel is original paint."  The car has a new clutch kit, rebuilt 5-speed transmission (and short shifter kit installed). The car has 81,000 miles on it.  "This 914 is a turn key anytime you want to start it up!"  The car is located in the San Francisco, California area. 

Interested?  Contact Timmy Bernardino at sparestrcy@me.com

Posted in Cars For Sale

C Cab at Road Scholars

We saw this very nice looking 1965 356C Cabriolet on Bringatrailer.com.  It's being sold by Road Scholars in North Carolina and is very well represented with plenty of excellent images so the prospective buyers can really see what they're getting.  Well done!     The auction has 7 days go--we'll be watching this result closely! 

Posted in Cars For Sale

Clean, Stock 1986 944 Turbo With Fresh Glasurit Repaint.

Looking for a clean 1986 944 Turbo?  Great classic combination of Guards Red over Black with 16-inch Phone Dial wheels..  Optionwise, the car has the sunroof and a limited slip differential.  A three owner car with a folder of receipts..and the car has never seen salt despite being located in Ohio.  

The car was recently treated to a windows-out repaint in single-stage Glasurit paint and many new seals and trim pieces were used in the reassembly process.  The car has 142,xxx miles on it and has had belts/tensioners/etc replaced within the last 10k miles.  

pschroeder@stoddard.com for more details. 

 

 

 

Posted in Cars For Sale

1963B Super Coupe in Viper Green? Black Plate Car!

Sometimes you see a car and it just makes you smile.  We came across this California black plate 1963 356B Super Coupe that's been repainted in Viper Green.  Originally silver, this car was treated to an earlier restoration in this vibrant shade of green.  Reasonably priced for a fun ride.  

You can see more info at
https://www.europeancollectibles.com/vehicles/1567/1963-porsche-356b-super-coupe

 

 

Posted in Cars For Sale

How To Apply Water Transfer Decals

Back when these cars were made, the Factory applied decals to various parts using the water transfer process.  The result is a thinner, more delicate decal than modern adhesive backed stickers. 
 
Note:  Here is an excellent Youtube video on how to install water transfer decals on a smaller scale, but still appropriate:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNYdd3Aley8
 
1. Preparation:
    • Surface: Ensure the surface is clean, smooth, and free of any debris or imperfections. 
       
    • Tools: Gather the following: tweezers, a clean bowl of water (room temperature is fine), paper towels, a soft brush, and optional decal setting solution or softener (like Micro Set or Solvaset). 
       
  • Decal: Cut out the decal from the sheet as close to the image as possible. 
     
2. Soaking and Preparation:
  • Soak: Submerge the decal in warm water for a few seconds (the time varies depending on the decal brand). 
     
  • Check: Gently check the decal by lightly pressing your thumbs underneath and sliding it. If it slides easily, it's ready. 
     
  • Position: Place the decal on a paper towel to drain excess water. 
     
3. Application:
  • Apply Setting Solution (Optional):
    If using a setting solution, apply a small amount to the area where you want to place the decal. 
     
  • Slide and Position:
    Carefully slide the decal off the backing paper and onto the surface, using tweezers or a brush to guide it. 
     
  • Remove Excess Water:
    Use a paper towel or soft brush to gently dab away any excess water or setting solution. 
     
  • Smooth Out:
    Use a damp Q-tip or soft tissue to gently smooth out any wrinkles or air bubbles, working from the center to the edges. 
     
4. Setting and Sealing:
  • Setting Solution (Optional):
    If you used a setting solution, apply another layer to the decal and let it dry according to the product instructions. 
     
  • Drying:
    Allow the decal to dry completely (usually 24 hours) before applying a final coat of clear gloss or varnish. 
     
Tips for Success:
  • Patience is key:
    Take your time and work carefully, especially when positioning the decal. 
     
  • Practice:
    If you're new to applying waterslide decals, practice on a spare surface first. 
     
  • Don't overdo it:
    Avoid applying too much setting solution or water, as this can cause the decal to wrinkle or shift. 
     
  • Sealing:
    Sealing the decals with a clear coat will help protect them from damage and fading. 
     
     

Posted in Technical Articles

2025 Stoddard Swap Meet

We are starting to put together our plan for this year's Stoddard Swap Meet in June. It's just FOUR months away!  We are trying some new things this year! 

Friday, June 6th:

To get an approximate headcount for Friday morning and mid-day activities, we are asking for free RSVPs here if you are going:

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/visit-switch-cars-crawford-shop-lunch-at-across-the-pond-restoration-tickets-1344361133339?aff=oddtdtcreator


8:30am:   Cars and Coffee at Switchcars—1521 Highland Rd, Twinsburg, OH 44087

10:30:  Visit to The Crawford Museum's Workshop—7950 Empire Parkway, Macedonia, OH 44056

12:30:  Lunch at Across The Pond Restoration—37195 Ben Hur Ave A, Willoughby, OH 44094

4pm:  Toy and Literature Meet at Pete’s Custom Coachbuilding—10357 Kinsman Rd, Newbury Township, OH 44065

6pm:  BBQ at Pete’s Custom Coachbuilding—10357 Kinsman Rd, Newbury Township, OH 44065. Tickets for Food Required:

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/porsche-barbecue-tickets-1319153125509?aff=oddtdtcreator

Saturday, June 7th
8am-2pm:  Swap Meet and Car Show at Stoddard NLA—190 Alpha (Driveway 21) Highland Heights, Ohio 44143

7am:  Vendor set-up
8am:  Show starts
10am:  Seminar:  Adam from Unobtanium
11am: Seminar:  Pete from Pete's Custom Coachbuilding
12pm:  Seminar:  Doug from Switchcars
1pm:  Peoples' Choice Awards Presentation

 

 

 

Posted in News and Events

Ask Brad Q&A: Porsche 356 Door Handle Identification

Question:
I finally got my door handle pieces back from the chrome platers. It's been a long time and now I can't remember how to put the handles back together. Please give me some tips for proper re-assembly. -  L. Davis, Marina, CA.
 
Answer:
Here’s a quick primer on these door handles – Below is a photo layout of the parts to make a left-hand B/C door handle.
 
Having put together many of these assemblies myself, it ain't easy the first and probably the second time! Here's four truths to go by:

The door handle casting is neither a left nor a right; however, your original castings will be marked L or R on the end. You can use the casting on either side of the car; the markings are hidden.

Original and reproduction door handles may look the same but different type seals are required (because of the way the groove was machined). Proper seal (and some grease) will keep the cylinder receiver casting from rattling.

The locking slider can be installed four ways; only two ways are correct.

The handle is locked if the key is vertical with teeth towards the ground.
The handle is unlocked if the key is horizontal with teeth towards the rear of car.
 
Here’s a photo of the lock assembles shown in the unlocked position.
 
 
Look at the left-hand one: (1) the teeth of the key are facing up;  (2) the indented portion is visible; (3) the grub screw is in the upper end of the slot;  (4) the lock slider is flush with the receiver casting on both sides.  It’s best to get a left one put together correctly – then the right-hand one is just the opposite!  
 
I use a fair amount of white lithium grease for assembly. You may have to slightly grind the casting so the receiver piece can be pushed in and out cleanly.
 
The brass lock slider is the most frustrating to get right. As mentioned above, it only goes one of two ways.  Here’s a photo of the slider orientated to go into the left assembly. You can see the narrow side of the hole to the upper side and the longer end facing out. You can also note that the stud on the end of the lock cylinder is offset also. 
 
 
You’ll find the sliders will stay in place with a little extra grease. Good luck with the project!

Posted in Technical Articles

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