Tagged with 'TECHNICAL HELP'

Ask Brad Q&A: Porsche 356 Door Handle Identification

Question:
I finally got my door handle pieces back from the chrome platers. It's been a long time and now I can't remember how to put the handles back together. Please give me some tips for proper re-assembly.  L. Davis, Marina, CA.
 
Answer:
Here’s a quick primer on these door handles – Below is a photo layout of the parts to make a left-hand B/C door handle.
 
Having put together many of these assemblies myself, it ain't easy the first and probably the second time! Here's four truths to go by:

The door handle casting is neither a left nor a right; however, your original castings will be marked L or R on the end. You can use the casting on either side of the car; the markings are hidden.

Original and reproduction door handles may look the same but different type seals are required (because of the way the groove was machined). Proper seal (and some grease) will keep the cylinder receiver casting from rattling.

The locking slider can be installed four ways; only two ways are correct.

The handle is locked if the key is vertical with teeth towards the ground.
The handle is unlocked if the key is horizontal with teeth towards the rear of car.
 
Here’s a photo of the lock assembles shown in the unlocked position.
 
 
Look at the left-hand one: (1) the teeth of the key are facing up;  (2) the indented portion is visible; (3) the grub screw is in the upper end of the slot;  (4) the lock slider is flush with the receiver casting on both sides.  It’s best to get a left one put together correctly – then the right-hand one is just the opposite!  
 
I use a fair amount of white lithium grease for assembly. You may have to slightly grind the casting so the receiver piece can be pushed in and out cleanly.
 
The brass lock slider is the most frustrating to get right. As mentioned above, it only goes one of two ways.  Here’s a photo of the slider orientated to go into the left assembly. You can see the narrow side of the hole to the upper side and the longer end facing out. You can also note that the stud on the end of the lock cylinder is offset also. 
 
 
You’ll find the sliders will stay in place with a little extra grease. Good luck with the project!

Ask Brad: Q&A -- Drum Brake Tips — 4/11/2019

Question:

I have a 1963 356B coupe which needs new front brakes.I’m pretty handy working on cars and want to do the work myself. I see you sell new brake shoes and all the other brake stuff. Tell me what to watch out for with this job. - George B.,  Cleveland, OH.


Answer:

There are no real mysteries in the Porsche 356 drum brakes. So here’s a few words that should help you out. Obviously, the front drums need the most attention and the drums themselves wear out after all these years.  Any cracks in the drum linings are cause to have the drums relined – there are a couple of sources for that service in the US – call me for names. Plus, the Porsche factory has recently manufactured new complete drums. However, usually the drums are good and may only need slight re-surfacing.

 
Assuming your drums are good, then your major job will be replacing the shoes and wheel cylinders. There are three areas to pay attention to. See photos below of both brake assemblies. 

Brake cylinders – two of the cylinders you will receive will go in the upper location and two go in the lower location. Look in the photo of the right-hand assy: The upper cylinder has the adjuster on the left side and the bottom one has the adjustor on the right side. 
 
Brake shoes – all four shoes should be the same design. The new production shoes from Stoddard NLA are modelled after the last and best original version. Previous Porsche versions can be used as well but are not as effective. Check the position of each in the photos.  

Look at the shoe in the upper left in the right-hand assy.The thick end goes into the adjuster side of the cylinder and the thin end goes into the non-adjustor side of the lower cylinder.
 
Some shoes are slightly thicker and/or bent on the end and will bind in the slot. A little filing or slight grinding will take care of that problem. A very slight touch of anti-seize compound at those points will solve any binding.   
 
Springs – carefully note which hole the ends of the springs attach to. Those springs are four of the big springs in your brake hardware kit (the other two are used on the rear brakes). You’ll find that vice-grip type pliers are your best friend to get the ends of these springs into the holes! The other springs are the little coil springs which tension the end caps against the “nails”. Again, there’s no problem if you have the right tool.  Buy one like this at Pep Boys which will take the grief out of setting the seats against the springs.

That should get you started on doing your brake job. Give us a call with any questions.

800-438-8119.  

Regards,
Brad Ripley

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